Ahluwalia SS24 – London Fashion Week
Obscure art and activism inspires the new collection at LFW. By THE FALL
Befitting a collection titled Acknowledgements, the Ahluwalia SS24 show at London Fashion Week was staged on a warm late summer night in the British Library, one of the most comprehensive research locations in the world. For her new story, creative director Priya Ahluwalia delved into the history of art, music, fashion, film and social justice to shape a narrative inspired by artists and activists whose achievements and contributions to the culture often go unacknowledged.
Indulging her eye for contemporary creativity, we saw different concepts on artistic motifs and innovative cuts from the designer. Interpolations from celebrated Algerian artist Baya Mahieddine, unsung Bollywood actress Madhubala, and prominent 60’s LGBTQ activist and drag queen Marsha P. Johnson informed the distinctive colour palette and shaped the unique design choices.
‘Illusion knitwear’ became a recurring theme among cardigans, sweaters and dresses; challenging the onlooker to observe closer to really understand the hidden subtext. Subtle flower motifs appear on silky skirts, trousers and tops for women and waist coats, shirts and shorts for men – “a nod to the colloquialism of ‘giving someone their flowers’,” the designer explains in her show notes.
Tailoring came with refashioned edges for updated takes on classic silhouettes. Brown four-button double-breasted suits featured wide contrast blue striping from shoulder to hem and large embroidered ‘A’ emblems on the jacket and trouser, while front-pleated slacks presented the same in red along the outseams.
Accessories like leather belts and calf-length boots for women also came emblazoned with the self-styled ‘A’. They sat alongside Chelsea Boots and tasselled loafers to expand the aesthetic forays into footwear for second season. Bold alternatives like ISKO’s CTRL+Z denim and a combination of recycled fabrics and regenerated cellulose fibres offered new textures and constructions to enjoy.
“The Spring Summer 24 collection is a continuation of the constant conversation between Ahluwalia the woman and Ahluwalia the brand,” continue the show notes. Taken in its entirety, Acknowledgements stands as an invitation to its wearer to join that conversation and create their own lasting legacies.
To read our review of the Ahluwalia AW23 show from LFW, click here
Click here for more information on Ahluwalia SS24
